NEWS:  September 2020:

I have stopped taking new guitar orders

As I slouch towards my full retirement, I am no longer taking guitar orders.  If you are a previous

customer, please call me.

I have a passion to build guitars that look, feel, play, and sound great. If you check my testimonials page, I think you'll
find that my customers agree that I achieve those goals.  You can also listen to my guitars at the sound clips page.
 
You can look at examples of my guitars on my photos page.  For pricing information, please see my price and order page.
 
These are shots of me at my top supplier:  Pacific Rim Tonewoods, where I pick my tops:
  
 
Usually, you will have a good idea what you want.  By phone and email, we will work out the design
details and exactly what features, materials, trim and inlays, etc. your guitar will have.  I will send you a
final specification which you approve.  As soon as you send me the deposit, the clock starts on the
delivery date. 
 
Especially important for many of my customers is the shape, width, and thickness of the neck.
Please take a look at my neck customization page.  Custom width, thickness and shape (including
matching the neck profile of an existing guitar -- if you can provide me that profile) is usually
no extra charge:  This is one of the most basic features of a custom, hand-built instrument and
it's part of my base price (within reasonable limits.)  Set up is also very important.

You can learn more about guitar set up here.
 

See how I build guitars:

Steel String Guitar Construction

Classical Guitar Construction

Guitar Set-up

These may also be of interest:

Violin construction
Major Modifications

Building a Les Paul kit

Please click HERE for a matrix that shows examples of pricing for several guitars with
various options.
 
Click HERE for sound clips of my guitars
 
My steel string guitar size specifications, with Martin sizes for reference:

(OM and 000 are the same body the only difference is the scale:  000 has the 24.9-inch "short"
scale and the OM has the 25.4-inch "dreadnought" scale (this is true for Martin OMs and 000s
as well).  The shorter scale is more comfortable to play for most people:  it requires less force
to fret the strings.)
 
 
How I build guitars:
 
Tops are individually thicknessed, braced, and voiced.  Backs are joined and finished to
take best advantage of the wood figure.  The backs are individually chosen for the guitar
and braced and voiced by hand. This is a completely hand-made instrument, with personal
attention to detail.
 
Neck joints:  I use a Martin-style dovetail joint for steel string guitars and I use a traditional
Spanish foot for the classical guitars.  I use Honduran mahogany or sapele (African mahogany,
very similar to Honduran) for steel string necks and end blocks.  I use Spanish cedar or
Honduran mahogany (Spanish cedar is standard, Honduran mahogany by request) for
classical guitar necks.  I use Spanish cedar for flamenco necks.
 
Finishes:  I use Crystalac Brite Tone sprayed lacquer as my standard finish.  This finish looks and sounds
just like traditional nitrocellulose lacquer, except it is:  easier to work with, much less toxic,
more environmentally-friendly, and it's better than nitro.  It is tougher and more chip-resistant
than nitro.  I can build the finish faster than nitro and it doesn't require a long hang period to
allow solvents to gas-off like nitro does.

 
I can also finish your guitar with sprayed shellac.  This is a good choice if you want a traditional
look for a classical guitar.  The finish will be buffed out; but will not be quite as glossy.
 
Please have a look at the wood I use to make my guitars.  There are many good option for
wood combinations.  Most will cost extra.
 
I use first quality genuine African black ebony fretboards.

You can learn more about guitar set up here.

You can see examples of my inlay work here.
 
Please also see my neck page.
 
Frets:  I use a fairly large fret wire:  The "crown" is what you see of the fret.
Crown dimensions (inches):
CW = 0.080 inch  (2.0 mm, ~5/64 inch)(crown width)
CH = 0.043 inch  (1.1 mm, ~3/64 inch)(crown height -- as rolled:  this will vary slightly because
                                                               of the fret-leveling process)

 
Truss rod:  for steel string guitars, my standard truss rod is either the LMI TRSDS rod or
This is an excellent, reliable truss rod.  The wrench is a 9/64-inch Allen key.  The truss rod access will be
at the headstock.
 
I use Spanish cedar linings.  They are wonderful for strength, weight, and tone, easy to work
with and they smell wonderful.  I can use mahogany linings on request.
 
I build on a traditional Spanish solera: 
 
This traditional hand-building method allows me maximum flexibility and eliminates the need
to have many different molds, etc.  This method has a long and successful history.  It was almost the only
method until factories came along (some traditional builders used inside mold boards like violin
forms.)  I prefer this method.  I can repeat the shape of the guitar with good precision.  Most of
the shape is determined by the side shapes, which I bend on forms (very repeatable):
 
   
 
 
Examples of wood I use:

AAA Sitka	AAA Engelmann	AAA western red cedar	AAA redwood (option at increased cost)
Plain mahogany (steel string standard)	Padauk (steel string standard)	Bubinga (steel string standard)	Indian rosewood (classical standard)

Hard-shell Cases:
It's critically important to protect your investment in a custom guitar with a top-quality hardshell
guitar case.  I will not ship a guitar without a good hardshell case.
 
I will provide hardshell cases from TKL These cases are the "Professional Series," models 8900,
8905, 8915, 8916, and 8975.  I only provide these cases with guitar orders.
 
Click on this link:   http://www.tkl.com/?siteid=products&pr=str&pr2=guitar
Then click on the type of guitar
Then click on the link the case with a number "89XX":
8900 (classical, B00)
8905 (000, OM)
8915 (Dreadnought)
8916 (GA)
8975 (Size 1)
The only difference between these cases is the size and shape
 
These cases are the best I have been able to find for a reasonable price.  They are lined with
open-cell foam wrapped in attractive velvet.  They fit great.  These cases are used by many makers.
 
Click on this picture for pictures of the TKL professional case:

   
I will not deliver a guitar without a hardshell case.  It is essential to protecting my work and your
investment.
 
Check out my page about TKL cases.